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Destination

Italie

1 février 2018

Le long de la côte Est de la Sicile .

Italie

1 février 2018

Destination

Alors que l’Automne s’est installé et que l’hiver pointe le bout de son nez, nous nous envolons vers la côte Est de la Sicile. Arrivés en milieu d’après-midi dans la ville de Catane, nous prenons la direction du sud jusqu’à notre logement tout en découvrant, par la fenêtre de la voiture, le paysage qui défile sous nos yeux.

Le long de la côte Est de la Sicile

1 février 2018

Photos et Texte :
Natacha Roché
Mathieu Lodin

Traduction :
Textmaster

Publié le
 1er février 2018

Alors que l’Automne s’est installé et que l’hiver pointe le bout de son nez, nous nous envolons vers la côte Est de la Sicile.

Arrivés en milieu d’après-midi dans la ville de Catane, nous prenons la direction du sud jusqu’à notre logement tout en découvrant, par la fenêtre de la voiture, le paysage qui défile sous nos yeux. L’île est très étendue et la location d’un véhicule est indispensable pour visiter la côte est de la Sicile. Les routes mal entretenues et la végétation en libre expression font partie intégrante du paysage et contrastent avec les champs d’oliviers, de citronniers et d’orangers, alignés à la perfection.

Nous logions entre Catane et Syracuse dans une villa des années 60, construite à flanc de falaise et tournée vers l’Etna. Le temps capricieux et la mer agitée nous offraient un paysage totalement différent des images communément partagées sur la Sicile. Quand le soleil perçait, la sensation d’un été indien se faisait sentir, mais lorsque les nuages l’éclipsaient, la fraîcheur de novembre se rappelait à nous.

With autumn already with us and winter just around the corner, off we flew to the east coast of Sicily.

After arriving in Catania mid-afternoon, we headed south to our accommodation, seeing and discovering the landscape for the first time as it passed in front of our eyes through the car window along the way. Sicily is a very large and extensive island, so it’s essential to rent a vehicle when visiting its east coast. The poorly maintained roads and freely growing vegetation are integral parts of the landscape, and offer a contrast to the fields of perfectly aligned olive, lemon and orange trees.

We stayed in a villa constructed on the side of a cliff and dating from the 1960s, and spent our time casually exploring the area between Catania and Syracuse. The unpredictable weather and turbulent seas presented us with a landscape completely at odds with the image people normally have of Sicily. One minute the sun was out, making it feel like an Indian summer, the next the clouds would block the sun, providing us with a reminder of the chilliness of November.

With autumn already with us and winter just around the corner, off we flew to the east coast of Sicily.

After arriving in Catania mid-afternoon, we headed south to our accommodation, seeing and discovering the landscape for the first time as it passed in front of our eyes through the car window along the way. Sicily is a very large and extensive island, so it’s essential to rent a vehicle when visiting its east coast. The poorly maintained roads and freely growing vegetation are integral parts of the landscape, and offer a contrast to the fields of perfectly aligned olive, lemon and orange trees.

We stayed in a villa constructed on the side of a cliff and dating from the 1960s, and spent our time casually exploring the area between Catania and Syracuse. The unpredictable weather and turbulent seas presented us with a landscape completely at odds with the image people normally have of Sicily. One minute the sun was out, making it feel like an Indian summer, the next the clouds would block the sun, providing us with a reminder of the chilliness of November.

Dans les rues de Syracuse.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

SYRACUSE

Chantée par Henri Salvador, Syracuse est l’une des curiosités connues de la côte Est de la Sicile. L’architecture est un mélange de baroque et de gothico-catalans qui s’est effrité au fil des ans : un désuet chic Sicilien agréable à l’oeil.

Pour les couleurs locales, rendez-vous au marché de Syracuse sur l’île d’Ortygie. Il se tient quotidiennement entre le temple d’Apollon et la jetée de l’entrée du port. Les marchands étalent leurs poissons frais ainsi que leurs fruits et légumes colorés.

À l’heure du midi, c’est au bout de la rue Emmanuele de Benedictis qu’il faut se diriger pour acquérir quelques produits de l’épicerie italienne Fratelli Burgio ou déguster un sandwich préparé en spectacle chez Borderi Elefteria, touristes et locaux s’y attroupent appuyés contre l’étal pour regarder et commander le met tant admiré.

L’île d’Ortygie dispose d’une magnifique route côtière à prendre à pied pour profiter de la mer et des vestiges.

Même si nous sommes arrivés après la fermeture de Neopolis, le parc n’en reste pas moins un endroit à visiter à Syracuse. Observé rapidement en prenant de la hauteur à proximité du lieu, le théâtre grec est très impressionnant par sa construction et ses dimensions.

SYRACUSE

Famously celebrated in song by French-Caribbean singer Henri Salvador, Syracuse is one of the well-known curiosities to be found along Sicily’s east coast. Its buildings exhibit a mixture of Baroque and Catalan Gothic architectural styles and have been subject to erosion over the years, resulting in a chic and weathered Sicilian look that’s pleasing to the eye.

To experience the local colour, the street market on the island of Ortygia is the place to head. This is held every day at a site between the Temple of Apollo and the jetty at the entrance to the harbour. The market traders set out their stalls with fresh fish and colourful fruits and vegetables. When lunchtime arrives, the end of Via Emmanuele de Benedictis is the place to be. Here you can get a few items to eat at the Fratelli Burgio Italian deli or enjoy a sandwich prepared before your very eyes, and with a dash of showmanship, at Borderi Elefteria; tourists and locals alike gather round to watch and order the food that’s been so keenly observed.

The island of Ortygia has a magnificent coastal trail that you can travel by foot, providing an opportunity to make the most of the sea and ancient ruins and relics.

Even though we arrived after the Neopolis had closed, it was still a place worth visiting in Syracuse. We got a quick view of the Greek theatre from a high vantage point close by and it is very impressive in terms of both its construction and its size.

SYRACUSE

Famously celebrated in song by French-Caribbean singer Henri Salvador, Syracuse is one of the well-known curiosities to be found along Sicily’s east coast. Its buildings exhibit a mixture of Baroque and Catalan Gothic architectural styles and have been subject to erosion over the years, resulting in a chic and weathered Sicilian look that’s pleasing to the eye.

To experience the local colour, the street market on the island of Ortygia is the place to head. This is held every day at a site between the Temple of Apollo and the jetty at the entrance to the harbour. The market traders set out their stalls with fresh fish and colourful fruits and vegetables. When lunchtime arrives, the end of Via Emmanuele de Benedictis is the place to be. Here you can get a few items to eat at the Fratelli Burgio Italian deli or enjoy a sandwich prepared before your very eyes, and with a dash of showmanship, at Borderi Elefteria; tourists and locals alike gather round to watch and order the food that’s been so keenly observed.

The island of Ortygia has a magnificent coastal trail that you can travel by foot, providing an opportunity to make the most of the sea and ancient ruins and relics.

Even though we arrived after the Neopolis had closed, it was still a place worth visiting in Syracuse. We got a quick view of the Greek theatre from a high vantage point close by and it is very impressive in terms of both its construction and its size.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

À faire, à savoir.

– À 50 min au sud-ouest de Syracuse se trouve le Canyon de Cavagrande dans la Réserve Naturelle de Cava Grande. Prenez la direction de Carrubella Entrance pour vous enfoncer dans la réserve. Le point de Laghetti Cavagrande est le plus connu, mais il peut être fermé si des éboulements sont survenus, obstruant le sentier.

– À 45 min au sud de Syracuse, découvrez la plage de Calla Mosche dans la Reserve Naturelle de Vendicari. Garez-vous à l’Agriturismo Cala Mosche moyennant quelques euros, puis prenez le sentier le long des champs d’orangers jusqu’à la plage.

Things to do, things to know.

– 50 minutes to the south-west of Syracuse lies the Cavagrande del Cassibile canyon, which forms part of the Cavagrande Nature Reserve. To get deep into the reserve, head for the place known as Carrubella Entrance. Thought the Laghetti Cavagrande is actually the best known part, it may be closed off if rock falls have occurred and the path is blocked.

– Visit and explore Calisthenic beach, which forms part of the Vendicari Nature Reserve and lies 45 minutes to the south of Syracuse. Park at the Agriturismo Calamosche (there is a charge of a few euros), then take the path that passes alongside the orange trees.

Things to do, things to know.

– 50 minutes to the south-west of Syracuse lies the Cavagrande del Cassibile canyon, which forms part of the Cavagrande Nature Reserve. To get deep into the reserve, head for the place known as Carrubella Entrance. Thought the Laghetti Cavagrande is actually the best known part, it may be closed off if rock falls have occurred and the path is blocked.

– Visit and explore Calisthenic beach, which forms part of the Vendicari Nature Reserve and lies 45 minutes to the south of Syracuse. Park at the Agriturismo Calamosche (there is a charge of a few euros), then take the path that passes alongside the orange trees.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

Noto, Modica et Ragusa font partie de l’ensemble des 7 dames baroques de la Sicile inscrites au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO situées au sud-est dans les terres de l’île sicilienne. L’une après l’autre, ces villes se visitent en se perdant dans les rues, le regard posé sur l’architecture. Certaines de ces villes ont été détruites par un tremblement de terre au XVIIe siècle.

NOTO

Noto est sans doute la plus impressionnante des trois, avec ses innombrables églises et bâtiments majestueux. Sa reconstruction après le tremblement de terre de 1693 a été réalisée à 15 km de la ville d’origine afin d’être mieux exposée au soleil. C’est d’ailleurs en fin ou en début de journée que la lumière est la plus intéressante, lorsque la pierre prend une teinte rose-doré si chaleureuse. Pour observer ces jeux de lumière, certaines églises disposent d’un point de vue en hauteur permettant de surplomber la ville.

Noto, Modica and Ragusa are three of a series of seven Baroque towns in Sicily that are collectively inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These towns can be toured one after the other by randomly wandering their streets at will and admiring the architecture. Some of them were completely destroyed in the 17th century by an earthquake.

NOTO

Noto is without a doubt the most impressive of the three, with its countless churches and majestic buildings. After the 1693 earthquake, and so that it would be more exposed to the sun, it was rebuilt at a site around 9.5 miles from the location of the original town. The light is most interesting after dawn and before dusk, when the stone takes on an exceptionally warm golden-pink hue. At some of the churches, it’s possible get up high and observe the interplay of the light from a vantage point overlooking the town.

Noto, Modica and Ragusa are three of a series of seven Baroque towns in Sicily that are collectively inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These towns can be toured one after the other by randomly wandering their streets at will and admiring the architecture. Some of them were completely destroyed in the 17th century by an earthquake.

NOTO

Noto is without a doubt the most impressive of the three, with its countless churches and majestic buildings. After the 1693 earthquake, and so that it would be more exposed to the sun, it was rebuilt at a site around 9.5 miles from the location of the original town. The light is most interesting after dawn and before dusk, when the stone takes on an exceptionally warm golden-pink hue. At some of the churches, it’s possible get up high and observe the interplay of the light from a vantage point overlooking the town.

Au détour d’une ruelle.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

MODICA

Modica, plus modeste et moins prétentieuse que Noto, possède une architecture plus simple et plus discrète. C’est en sortant de la rue principale pour gravir les flancs de la ville que nous avons pris toute l’ampleur de Modica et profité du magnifique spectacle des habitations construites les unes sur les autres.

MODICA

Modica is more modest and less pretentious than Noto, and its architecture is simpler and less showy. By heading away from the main street and climbing up to the high parts of the town, we were able to see Modica in all its full extent and enjoy the spectacle of the houses, which are built one on top of the other.

MODICA

Modica is more modest and less pretentious than Noto, and its architecture is simpler and less showy. By heading away from the main street and climbing up to the high parts of the town, we were able to see Modica in all its full extent and enjoy the spectacle of the houses, which are built one on top of the other.

RAGUSA

Ragusa, quant à elle, se compose de deux parties : la vielle ville située en hauteur et reconstruite après le tremblement de terre, puis la ville moderne construite en contrebas peu après la première. Ragusa a été bâtie sur une falaise de 550 mètres environ et est entourée de vallées et d’autres falaises. Nous avons visité la ville peu avant le coucher du soleil en nous posant sur les hauteurs de la ville moderne et observé la vieille ville s’allumer tranquillement à la nuit tombante.

RAGUSA

The third town of the trio, Ragusa, is made up of two parts: the higher old town area and the lower modern town. The old town was rebuilt after the earthquake and the modern town was constructed shortly afterwards. Ragusa extends up a cliff-side measuring approximately 1,800 ft in height and has valleys and further cliffs all around it. We visited the town a little before sunset and stopped and sat down up in the heights of the modern part to sit and watch the old town slowly light up as night fell.

RAGUSA

The third town of the trio, Ragusa, is made up of two parts: the higher old town area and the lower modern town. The old town was rebuilt after the earthquake and the modern town was constructed shortly afterwards. Ragusa extends up a cliff-side measuring approximately 1,800 ft in height and has valleys and further cliffs all around it. We visited the town a little before sunset and stopped and sat down up in the heights of the modern part to sit and watch the old town slowly light up as night fell.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

Il faut compter trois quarts d’heure de marche pour atteindre le canyon de Cava Grande.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

L’ETNA

Avec ses 3352 m d’altitude et une superficie de 1250 km2, l’Etna est le volcan le plus actif et le plus haut d’Europe. En novembre, l’atmosphère y est particulière. Les paysages changent au fur et à mesure de notre ascension : la végétation verdoyante entre en phase automnale et les feuilles deviennent peu à peu plus jaune, orangée et marron.

C’est en arrivant près du Refuge Sapienza que les arbres ont complètement disparu, les anciennes coulées de lave ont recouvert le sol laissant place à une steppe noire et brune. Le vent se renforce, mais la vue en contrebas est magnifique.

Le temps devient glacial, et nous empruntons le téléphérique pour parvenir en haut du volcan où des 4×4 nous attendent pour gravir les derniers mètres. Le haut de l’Etna est recouvert de neige, à notre arrivée au sommet une brume épaisse s’est installée. Nous nous enfonçons dans ce brouillard dense accompagné de guides, nos sourcils gèlent au bout de quelques minutes.

Nos pas dans la neige laissent apparaître le sol noir du volcan, mais nous ne verrons rien de plus. Le vent fouette nos visages et notre champ de vision est complètement obstrué. Nous n’avons pas pu observer ce pour quoi nous étions venus, mais le paysage nous a offert un tout autre spectacle non moins fantastique.

ETNA

Extending over an area of 482 square miles and standing 10,997 feet high, Etna is Europe’s highest and most active volcano. The atmosphere and conditions were particularly unusual and distinctive in November. The landscapes changed and altered as we ascended, with the verdant vegetation entering its autumn phase and the leaves gradually turning more yellow, orangey and brown.

Once we got close to the Sapienza Refuge, there were no more trees to be seen at all; the ground was covered long ago by ancient lave flows, creating a black and brown steppe landscape. The wind was getting stronger, but the views down below were magnificent.

With the weather becoming glacial, we took the cable car up to the higher part of the volcano, where there were 4x4s waiting to take us the final few yards. The top of Etna is covered in snow, and on the day we arrived at the summit it was enshrouded in heavy mist. Accompanied by the guides, we pushed on into the thick fog, with our eyebrows freezing in just a matter of minutes.

The footprints we were leaving in the snow exposed the volcano’s black surface, but we could see nothing else. The wind lashed our faces, and our vision was completely obstructed. It proved impossible to see the main object of our excursion, but the landscape offered us a fantastic and utterly unique spectacle.

ETNA

Extending over an area of 482 square miles and standing 10,997 feet high, Etna is Europe’s highest and most active volcano. The atmosphere and conditions were particularly unusual and distinctive in November. The landscapes changed and altered as we ascended, with the verdant vegetation entering its autumn phase and the leaves gradually turning more yellow, orangey and brown.

Once we got close to the Sapienza Refuge, there were no more trees to be seen at all; the ground was covered long ago by ancient lave flows, creating a black and brown steppe landscape. The wind was getting stronger, but the views down below were magnificent.

With the weather becoming glacial, we took the cable car up to the higher part of the volcano, where there were 4x4s waiting to take us the final few yards. The top of Etna is covered in snow, and on the day we arrived at the summit it was enshrouded in heavy mist. Accompanied by the guides, we pushed on into the thick fog, with our eyebrows freezing in just a matter of minutes.

The footprints we were leaving in the snow exposed the volcano’s black surface, but we could see nothing else. The wind lashed our faces, and our vision was completely obstructed. It proved impossible to see the main object of our excursion, but the landscape offered us a fantastic and utterly unique spectacle.

A 2500m, la neige recouvre en partie la lave noire.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

À faire, à savoir.

– Faire la montée à pied en novembre : prévoir de l’équipement chaud comme en montagne
– Pour ne pas être pris au dépourvu par le temps, consultez la météo au sommet avec l’aide de la webcam
– La visite des cratères en activité est autorisée avec des guides spécialisés.

Things to do, things to know.

– Do the hike to the top in November and make sure you take warm mountain clothing with you.
– To avoid being caught out by the weather, check what the conditions are like at the summit on the webcam
– Visits to active craters are permitted when accompanied by specialist guides.

Things to do, things to know.

– Do the hike to the top in November and make sure you take warm mountain clothing with you.
– To avoid being caught out by the weather, check what the conditions are like at the summit on the webcam
– Visits to active craters are permitted when accompanied by specialist guides.

Le panorama offert par le volcan est à couper le souffle.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

TAORMINA

Perchée haute sur une colline et dominant la mer, Tormina est un des joyaux de la côte Est de la Sicile. Alors qu’elle est surpeuplée en haute saison, nous avons pu profiter d’un moment paisible au sein de la ville. Arrivée sur les hauteur, la vue sur l’eau cristalline et sur l’Île Belle est magnifique. Au loin, le continent pointe le bout de son nez.

Nous quittons le haut du plateau naturel pour descendre jusqu’à la plage. Là, nous nous engouffrons dans ces petites ruelles étroites empruntant les escaliers de pierres qui longent les habitations. L’air est chaud, et les rues presque désertes. Les chats dorment sur la pierre chaude, les habitants discutent entre eux adossé au portail du jardin, après le rush de la saison, la ville a repris une routine calme et tranquille.

Sur la plage, quelques badauds se promènent au bord de l’eau. Quelques téméraires tentent de traverser habillés jusqu’à Isola Bella. Près du spot de plongée, nous enfilons nos combinaisons pour explorer surface les fonds marins depuis la surface près des rochers. Sous nos yeux, des centaines de petits poissons glissent et se faufilent dans l’eau, la flore danse au rythme des mouvements de la mer. L’eau est fraîche en novembre, mais n’enlève rien à la beauté du tableau.

Au centre de la ville se trouve le Teatro Greco de Taormina. La scène de l’amphithéâtre, dont les colonnes ont été partiellement détruites, trône encore majestueusement. Arrangée en arc de cercle, la cavea est dirigée vers la mer et l’Etna. Elle est sculptée dans la roche et accueille aujourd’hui encore près de 5400 spectateurs.

TAORMINA

Perched high on a hill and standing looking out over the sea, Taormina is one of the jewels of Sicily’s east coast. Though it gets excessively busy during the high season, the town was enjoyably quiet and peaceful when we visited it. Once we’d reached the high parts, the views out over Isola Bella and the crystalline waters of the sea were magnificent. In the distance we could make out the mainland.

We left the heights of this natural plateau behind to make our way down to the beach. This took us deep into the narrow alleyways and stone steps that run alongside the houses. The air was hot and the streets virtually deserted. There were cats asleep on stone ledges, local inhabitants engaged in conversation, leaning on garden gates – after the hustle and bustle of the summer season, the town had returned to its normal routine of peace and tranquillity.

On the beach were a handful of people casually wandering along the shore. One or two daring, audacious types were even trying to cross to Isola Bella with clothes on. In an area close to the local diving spot, we slipped our swimming costumes on so we could explore the seabed around the rocks. Before our eyes we saw hundreds of little fish, gliding and turning through the water, with the aquatic flora dancing to the rhythm of the sea’s movements. The water is chilly in November, but that didn’t detract at all from the beauty of the scene.

Located in the town centre is the Teatro Gerco de Taormina. The stage of the amphitheatre, the columns of which have been partially destroyed, still stands proudly and magnificently in place. The cavea is arranged in a semi-circle and faces in the direction of the sea and Mount Etna. Sculpted in the rock, it can still accommodate an audience of 5,400 today.

TAORMINA

Perched high on a hill and standing looking out over the sea, Taormina is one of the jewels of Sicily’s east coast. Though it gets excessively busy during the high season, the town was enjoyably quiet and peaceful when we visited it. Once we’d reached the high parts, the views out over Isola Bella and the crystalline waters of the sea were magnificent. In the distance we could make out the mainland.

We left the heights of this natural plateau behind to make our way down to the beach. This took us deep into the narrow alleyways and stone steps that run alongside the houses. The air was hot and the streets virtually deserted. There were cats asleep on stone ledges, local inhabitants engaged in conversation, leaning on garden gates – after the hustle and bustle of the summer season, the town had returned to its normal routine of peace and tranquillity.

On the beach were a handful of people casually wandering along the shore. One or two daring, audacious types were even trying to cross to Isola Bella with clothes on. In an area close to the local diving spot, we slipped our swimming costumes on so we could explore the seabed around the rocks. Before our eyes we saw hundreds of little fish, gliding and turning through the water, with the aquatic flora dancing to the rhythm of the sea’s movements. The water is chilly in November, but that didn’t detract at all from the beauty of the scene.

Located in the town centre is the Teatro Gerco de Taormina. The stage of the amphitheatre, the columns of which have been partially destroyed, still stands proudly and magnificently in place. The cavea is arranged in a semi-circle and faces in the direction of the sea and Mount Etna. Sculpted in the rock, it can still accommodate an audience of 5,400 today.

dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades
dyptique nomades

Destination

1 février 2018

Le long de la côte Est de la Sicile

Photos et Texte:

Mathieu Lodin
Natacha Roché

Traduction:
Textmaster

Publié le
1 février 2018

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